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NICE is nice - but you don't want to stay there too long!
NICE is the arrival and departure point for the South of France, but that's what you should consider it to be and not a real stopping off point. Nice is France's third largest City, is industrial by work, and a new City which grew up around an old City. And, that's the nicest part of NICE, the old port area.
NICE is central to the whole coastline, and whilst Delta has the only one direct daily flight from the US, planes arrive from all over the world to this sunshine and luxury mecca. If you only have 2 days in the region, then staying in Nice itself isn't a bad idea, because once located, you can travel in one direction towards Cannes, or the other direction to Monte Carlo. For these it is central. It has a great transportation hub, and at the airport, super de-luxe Autoroute buses will speed you to your destination.
If you're staying in NICE, then the venerable HOTEL NEGRESCO, which dominates the Boulevard des Anglais is the one to stay at. It is from the Belle Epoque, quiet, understated, but over the top elegance, distinguishes it as you enter the lobby. In the grand style of Monte Carlo's Hotel de Paris, or Cannes' Carlton Hotel, the Negresco is where the local rich and famous go to meet and greet. THE WESTMINSTER Hotel, fronting on the Boulevard is also stately with magnificent Sea views. And, the MERIDIEN is the updated hotel - and Casino -foreigners love to stay in.
The Boulevard, which traverses the whole of the Nice shoreline was named for visiting English people in the winter of the Belle Epoque period, late 1800s. Mild winters brought winter weary travelers from all over. And, travelers loved to take a stroll on the Promenade before retiring - especially an evening constitution with their dogs! So, the Boulevard des Anglais evolved, and now is a mad cacophony of cars, bikes, buses, tourist "trains," and the sounds from the water. It is in a constant state of energy. You can walk around Nice, but it is a long walk! The main shopping street, Boulevard Jean Medicien is akin to the bustle of any Parisian street. And the shops are just as attractive.
But, wend your way through the flower market (made famous in that wonderful chase scene in TO CATCH A THIEF), and you enter the world of a bygone era. The old port City of Nice, is small, cramped, reeking of an earlier time. Famous for its Socca tarts (yummy!), the old port is walk-able. It has a lively square which at night is filled with restaurants, and people can dine under the stars and colored lights. Specialties of the day are mostly from the sea, and huge plates filled also with pastas delight any palate. Strolling musicians, local stalls and tourist buys, line both sides of the "square." On Monday mornings, this area is home to a Marche aux Puces - the famous flea market. Treasures, and junk, are laid side-by-side on the pavements. Some of the asking prices are breathtaking, especially for "old, cracked, vintage" pieces (hum!!!). But you enjoy a real feeling of what a wonderful old port city Nice used to be. Now, all the daily ferry boats leave this area bound for Corsica, Sardinia, Genoa and other local coastal places.
A visit to the top of the local "fortress mountain" will afford you a panoramic view of Nice to your right, and the coastline up to Monte Carlo on the left. Unchecked growth in these hills is slowly turning the area into an overbuilt development for the rich. Then again, who can blame them.
There are no local restaurants of renown in this City. So, just check the local papers, your tour guide book, or eat in one of the fabulous hotels for your meals. The local restaurants may not be serving haute cuisine meals, but they're guaranteed freshly caught, or picked, fish and food for the day.
Enjoy NICE, it really is quite nice.
October 18, 2023
