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I love the South of France, my favorite place on earth.But, just over the French/Italian border is another piece of Heaven. The Riviera of the Flowers – they grow in wild profusion and greenhouses all over the hillsides of this area. The flower stands are places of immense delight, just to stand and smell, and see God’s miracle of color and growth illuminate our lives.
I love the Riviera, both sides of the border. And frankly my dear, after I’ve arrived in either Nice (France), or Genoa (Italy), I make a beeline to the train station. I LOVE the local train that runs at the lowest edges of the Med. Sometimes even the low road or Bord de Mer is above you, so the seascape vistas will capture your mind’s eye. Coming from Nice to Alassio as you know, there are the famous “old” 3 main roads – the Petit Corniche (bord de mer), the Moyenne, rimming the tops of towns, or the Grand Corniche. High on the hills this road offers the most amazing vistas to either country. If you’re in a car make sure you journey on all three for the magic they will unfold to you. Of course, if speed is your deal, then hasten to the Autoroute (France) which melds into the Autostrada (Italy), it’s the super high speed highway linking all the main towns on the Riviera. Watch carefully as you speed without a limit – because there are very limited exits, and a very long space between them. But, let’s go back to Paradise.
The train offers you the best views of the resort towns along the Riviera, and when you arrive in Menton, France’s last town, you used to have to change trains. And, there used to be French Police to check your passport – then a few meters along, the Italian police came on board to do the same thing! Travel used to be fun – and all those lovely stamps!!! The train shuttles along to Bordighera, border town, then Ventimiglia, yes, 20 miles from the border, and arrives in Alassio, Regna di Riviera di Fiori (Queen of the Riviera of Flowers.) An ancient town and a year round resort, it Is heaven to get off here.
A border separates France and Italy – but a socioeconomic tier, and a luxury products veneer, and well, the Italian Riviera just isn’t the French one! It’s a more homely, friendly place. Alassio has wide Boulevards, flat territory for walking, long sandy beaches, and is nestled in to the Alpes Maritime. It’s alive with Bars and restaurants, and tourists not able to afford the inflated French area. Tourists flock from all over Europe, and because it is so central, you can stay parked on a beach or in your hotel, or you can visit other beaches, nearby towns, go fishing, sailing, day tripping, whatever is your pleasure, you’ll find it here. Everywhere are the flower stalls, abundant with color and smell, you can never resist the urge to buy another bouquet and live among the flowers for a few days.
Alassio is close to St. Remo, a larger, more famous city, which even has a statue to Queen Victoria, who holidayed there during the cold, grey winters of England. The street markets in St. Remo draw people from everywhere. They were most famous for their “genuine” designer logo products, and people bargain hunted for treasure. Of course, in the end, the Polizei, and the tax police came and pushed all the peddlers, and knockoff artists away, so if you want a Louis Vuitton you’ll just have to buy an original.
There are wonderful hotels in Alassio, and as it is so central to both France and Italy a stay in one will cost less than the other side of the border. The Grande Hotel is most famous there, and has just been refurbished to 21st century tourists needs. Perched near the water it’s a quick walk to the beach. The rooms are glorious, as is the pool area, and you’re just up-the-road to Alassio’s city center. There are other hotels nearby, and some gorgeous Villa-Hotels on the hilltops. Set in glorious gardens, most hotels here also offer pensione style dining, and that can be a great savings. Even on a hillside, it is a short walk to the beaches, and underground tunnels allow you to “cross” the roads quite safely.
St. Remo hosts the annual Song Festival, in fact, was the early inspiration for the current crop of reality talent shows! It still brings huge crowds to the area, and winning is as prestigious as ever. St. Remo, as with Alassio and other towns along this coastline have morphed into year round resorts. In summer the emphasis is on sun/swim sports of every kind. But in winter, it becomes a wellness area for people taking their health seriously. And, if you want to schlep up into the mountains, you can even ski!
GO – relax – enjoy – a short 3-4 day trip will refresh you, and get you ready for the next leg of your European Sojourn! Go by boat (to Genoa, home port of Christopher Columbus!), by plane to Nice or Genoa, by TGV and local trains, or by road. They will all bring you to this sun filled Paradise. Enjoy.
September 20, 2014
