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What exactly is a heurigen? It’s Austria’s answer to a beer garden - only with wine. A heurigen is one of the best places to sample regional wines and delicious simple home-made cuisine and true “Gemütlichkeit ” - warmth and coziness. Heuriger means “this year” and heurigens began when Emperor Joseph II allowed vintners to sell their new wine directly to customers without any taxes. Families set up tables in their vineyards, gardens and cellars, and hung a wreath made of straw or evergreens as a signal that they were open and ready to serve their family wines.
At first, no food could be sold to prevent competition with the local restaurants. Over time the restrictions lessened and the families were allowed to offer both hot and cold dishes made quite often with products from their own gardens and livestock. Today, Heurigens are some of the best places to visit in Austria. Look for the homemade wreath or bough outside as the signal to an authentic heurigen, which are usually open for only 2-3 weeks at a time. These differ from the commercial Heurigen-style restaurants which sell a variety of wines, beers and coffee from a variety of sources. A true heurigen only offers their own vintage.
To discover some of the best, travel to the Wachau Valley which stretches from Krems to Melk along the Danube River. Make sure you visit Durnstein while in the Wachau. Hike up to the ruins, stroll through the streets and then look for a Heurigen wreath hanging for a little relaxation and refreshment. Don’t worry, you’re likely to find a Heurigen in even the smallest village in the area. I was first introduced to a heurigen in Franzhausen which is not too far from Krems and Durnstein, and at the time had a population just under 100. The heuriger season lasts about four months, but competing heurigens can’t open for business at the same time. The locals work together to coordinate and schedule heurigens throughout the season so each family has a chance to sell their wine. Wines are usually sold by the glass - an achterl (1/8 liter) a viertle (1/4 liter), or by a half-liter caraf.
Depending on the season you are visiting, some special offerings are available. In September, soon after the first grapes are harvested, it is possible to enjoy the “Sturm”. It’s only partially fermented and still contains a fair amount grape sugar. It has a light fruity taste but still packs a punch!
You’ll almost always find Grüner Veltliner, which is a fruity white wine that is probably the most produced wine in the area. If you are really lucky, you can try the coveted Eiswein, (Ice Wine). To produce Eiswein, the grapes must be harvested when they are frozen on the vine. The grapes are pressed while still frozen and the resulting wine is very sweet and delicious. You’ll probably have to ask a local where to find a cellar that will let you sample their Eiswein.
Try a Gespritzer. It’s a refreshing mix of soda water and wine, or instead ask to have it mixed with an Almdudler which is an herb-based Austria soft drink.
Along with the wines you will find plenty of delicious breads, rolls, cheeses, spreads, salads, sausages and meats at any heurigen. The warm leberkäse, dense breads with just a hint of butter topped with thinly sliced cheese and freshly ground horseradish, and the roast pork are some of my favorites.
Look for the wreath hanging, and walk into the wonderful experience of a heurigen. It will become a tradition any time you return to Austria.
Linda Clark Uhl
December 12, 2022
